Saturday, 23 April 2011
Air Filter
Standard approach, using a solid disc in an electric drill to get the majority of paint off and then a grit impregnated brush for the finial clean up and getting into corners etc. The bottom on the filter that holds the oil has some rust holes so this will need to be silver soldered before painting.
All primed and now ready for top coating with the wings tomorrow. The weather has been sunning sunshine so that should help with the painting on Saturday.
Sunday, 17 April 2011
Wings
I have started by attaching the bottom frame (the wings came with the bottom centre bolt hole already drilled but no others) Once in place, I then drilled the other 6 holes. 2 for the bottom frame and 4 for both the bottom and top frame where the two frames bolt together.
I'm using 10mm stainless hex nuts and bolts with nyloc nuts for the bottom 7 fixings and 8mm dome headed bolts and nyloc's for the top 3 fixings).
This picture shows both wings bolted to there primed frames, hung ready for painting.
Monday, 4 April 2011
Spring is in the Air
Tuesday, 1 March 2011
2011 Update
However on Christmas Day, with snow on the ground, she made an outing to the village pub complete with tinsel !
Thursday, 16 September 2010
Top Coat & Wings
The old wings both being rotten at the bottom. One wing is fitted to its frame with a mixture of coach bolts and standard hex headed bolts, the other with all standard hex headed bolts. Not sure of the original specification, I'm planning on using coach bolts for the new wings as there appearance is better than a standard hex bolt head. The condition of the old bolts means grinding them off.
With the old wing off, I get to prepare the frame ready for painting using a mixture of grinding disc and wire brush. I then fit the frames to the new wing and drill the wing. Above are photos of the wing being offered up to the Tractor. Note the coach bolt in the top fixing compared to the temporary hex bolts used on the bottom mountings.
The plan being to brush finish the frames with primer tonight. Fit the frames tomorrow and mastic between the wing and frame and then spray the top coat.
From my experience of the bonnet, the top coat is going to take at least 24hrs to harden sufficiently. So they both need to be top coated by Saturday morning at the latest !
I mentioned in my last blog about the finish that I have achieved on the bonnet, hopefully the pictures below give a general impression. I'm pleased anyway !
Shiny Paint !
P.S the wooden bonnet stand I made with castor's on the bottom has definitely been worth the effort.
Tuesday, 14 September 2010
Quick update
There is a ploughing competition in my village on the 19th of Sept. Despite not having a plough I'm really trying to get Tillie going so I can make an appearance.
I've also noticed that I have a few more followers, welcome. Hopefully the blog is useful.
Pictures and more text to follow on the build and challenge to get Tillie out on the road this Sunday.
Sunday, 4 July 2010
Hammer Time
I've also made a simple support of the bonnet that is on casters so I can move it about easily. I've made the decision to only fill, knock out, the bigger dents as getting it back to being anywhere need straight is going to be a very very time consuming process. Its a tractor after all, not a car !
Wednesday, 30 June 2010
Tuesday, 29 June 2010
Not So Good
Well, just when I thought I was getting somewhere a problem !
Having attached, and mastic'd the bottom bulkhead plate on to back of the dashboard and then painted it (see right). I then realised that I'd attached the bulkhead plate to the wrong side of the steering box mountings.
As can be seen I mounted the bulkhead on the engine side of these mounting points. This meant that when refitting the throttle linkage, the throttle rod disc on the front of the bulkhead didn't sit flush with the bulkhead.
No option but to remove the bulkhead and mastic before repositioning this time on the right side of the steering box (seat side) before repainting. A wasted mornings work!
Tuesday, 15 June 2010
Top Coat
The second photo shows the rest of tractor. I'm greatly inspired now to get Tillie up and running asap. The plan I'm considering is to fit the last few bits of tin such as the battery tray assembly, drag line arms, throttle linkage, seat bracket and give it one last top coat.Sunday, 13 June 2010
Dashboard
It feels like I might have finally turned a corner. Today, I started the progress of preparing the dash for painting. I'd removed the dash and related tin work as part of the refurbishment. A quick acid dip and then begins the process of wire brushing, and wet and dry paper. When I purchased Tillie, she had a hole in the dash for a headlight switch, As I don't have lights at the moment I've decided to fill the hole by using a small square of sheet metal and some body filler. Monday, 7 June 2010
Front Axle

With the axle fitted its back to the wire brushes to remove all the old paint and corrosion (a job I'm completely fed up with now!). This time a different colour primer (as its kicking around), red oxide.
Monday, 10 May 2010
Engine and Gearbox
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
More Bank Holidays


Saturday, 1 May 2010
New Rubber

Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Change of Plan
Poor Tillie doesn't much resemble a tractor !
What's more I've been reminded that I have a bet on down the pub that the old girl will be back up and running by the 6th June, help !
With this in mind I had a major push on Saturday continuing to prep the back axle, gearbox and bell housing ready for primer. I've decided this is the priority, and need about another 8hrs wire brushing, grinding and cleaning.
Once primed the plan is to refit the engine leaving the front axle to strip and paint and all tin- work. Its fills like an uphill battle and a tall order to hit the 6th.
Tuesday, 6 April 2010
Proof that Oil and Water Don't Mix
As can be seen from the first photo, note the running water !Having allowed all the oil to drain and pushing out the sludge using a air pressure, I was left with a small hole in the ally casting. Interestingly this had showed no signs of leaking prior to me removing the old paint. I guess the oil is under no pressure so a bit of paint was sufficient to prevent any leaks. The hole can be clearly seen in the photo below.

Options for repair are either remove the steering box and take a trip to the welders or, fill the hole with a liquid metal or epoxy adhesive. I decide to go the epoxy route for both speed and cost. If paint stopped the leak then providing the surface is well cleaned epoxy should in theory have no problems.
Just visible in the third photo is the repair. I've decided to fill the steering box with a semi fluid grease instead of oil on the basis that this should limit any leakage from the steering arm seals. Hopefully the epoxy repair will hold and once painted won't be visible.
Friday, 19 March 2010
Crankshaft
Right, time for another update. Having removed the sump I have checked the crankshaft end float. This is 12 thou. The manual suggests the new clearance should be between 5 and 12 thou with a "max permissible return to service wear" of 10 thou (I'm guessing this means that if greater than 10 thou the engine should not be put back into service without new bearings). I've therefore decided I need to replace the thrust bearings and the main bearings at the same time. When the new thrust bearings arrived, I decided to compared there thickness, the new bearings
being 2 thou thicker than the old ones. With a bearing either side of the crank journal this should reduce the end float to about 8 thou ( I hope).
of hand punched figures at either end of the block 'H25' (see bottom photo). I'm intrigued to find out what these signify or mean.With the sump on these numbers are hidden. Hopefully the FoFH maybe able to provide an answer or two?
Monday, 8 March 2010
Crankshaft Pulley
Pleased with my result, I felt like updating the blog.
Sunday, 7 March 2010
More Engine
Looking at the engine internals, my first observation is that the undersides of the pistons are shiny. Is this the answer to why the piston tops were clean compared to the head. I’m strongly of the opinion that the pistons have therefore been replaced.
With the sump off I can remove the main bearing carriers. Inspecting the bearings shows some but not excessive wear and that they are of standard size see below.
The only problem I have is that I didn't think to remove the front fan belt pulley before removing the engine. My fear being that I won't be able to undo the pulley securing bolt/nut now the engine is out off the tractor. If this is the case I can't remove the pulley and timing belt cover which in turn means I can't take out the crank.
If this is the case I will have to replace the bearings in-situ. Whilst this can be done its not ideal.
On a different note, despite the cold weather I've started to notice that the lighter evenings are coming. Perhaps the first signs of spring. In the back of my mind I'm conscious that I need to start the process of re assembly some time. At the moment all I seam to be doing is dis-ssembly. Lots still to do.






















